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What Are Old Cut Diamonds?

What Are Old Cut Diamonds?

It’s no secret that in the AR studio, we are unashamedly and hopelessly devoted diamond fangirls. Diamonds have captivated hearts for centuries, but not all diamonds are created equal.

You all know and love modern cut diamonds, but our current obsession is with the unique and undeniably romantic old cut diamond. Boasting soft, vintage sparkle, these diamonds evoke a sense of nostalgia and charm, making them highly sought after by collectors, antique lovers, and those with an appreciation for timeless beauty.

Anna Rosholt examining an old cut diamond under a microscope
Old cut diamonds laid out on Anna Rosholt's hand

What Makes an Old Cut Diamond Shine?

Old cut diamonds were shaped long before modern machines and standards existed. These stones were hand-cut by skilled gem cutters using only their eyes and simple tools. The goal wasn’t perfect symmetry, but rather creating diamonds with character and a rich history.  Old cuts manage to capture so much magic. Just looking at a beautiful old cut diamond literally gives me butterflies; they are so lovely! 

Unlike today’s diamonds, which aim for flawless precision, old cuts embrace slight imperfections. These unique traits give each diamond its own charm and tell a story that modern cuts can’t replicate.

One thing that I sincerely appreciate and respect is the extreme craftsmanship that went into shaping each diamond. Just imagine the process of how one diamond cutter learnt from those before them. Techniques that went through generations. It’s these traditions that add to the rich history of each stone and make them that much more unique. 

Characteristics of Old Cut Diamonds

Old cuts include a variety of different diamond shapes, but the most well-known among them are the Old Mine Cut and the Old European Cut. There’s something about the distinct character of each stone that no stone will ever be the same, that is worth some extra magic. 

I really love the old mine cut, which is generally more cushion-shaped. The larger hand-cut facets and softer shapes give the diamonds a wonderful ‘comfy’ feeling and give off the dreamiest glow, with a more natural feel. It’s the type of sparkle that you’ll know when you see it.

Old Mine Cut vs European Cut

Old Mine Cut: These beauties go way back, we’re talking 1700s to early 1800s. The old mine cut is kind of like the great-grandmother of today’s brilliant cut. It has a round-ish shape, a high crown, and chunky, hand-cut facets that give it a gorgeous, soft glow. 

Old European Cut: Fast-forward to the late 1800s, and you’ll find the old European cut, a slightly more polished version of the Mine Cut. Still hand-cut, still full of charm, just a bit more refined. The facets are big, the shimmer is soft and antique-y, and the shape is beautifully round. If you’re into vintage romance, this one’s for you.

Comparison table between Old mine cut diamonds and Old European Cut Diamonds

Why Old Diamonds Are Rare (Especially in South Africa)

Old cut diamonds are rare because they’re recycled stones, usually sourced from antique jewellery, which makes their availability unpredictable and limited. Finding specific cuts to meet exact requirements can be especially challenging. These treasures often appear unexpectedly, so we can’t always guarantee we’ll find exactly what you’re looking for. 

Most of the old cut diamonds we work with have been passed down through generations, which adds to their unique history and character. While we do have some trusted suppliers who specialise in sourcing these stones, it sometimes means reaching out to antique dealers. Excitingly, there’s now a growing market for old cut lab-grown diamonds, which opens up new international sourcing possibilities. 

An Extra Special Stone

Most of the ones I work with are family heirlooms, rich with history and emotion. One of our custom projects featured an old cut diamond passed down from a client's grandmother, transformed into an engagement ring. A love story passed from one generation to the next. How magical is that? 

Don’t tell my team…

They tend to get a bit twitchy when I bring up old cut diamonds in custom appointments. They know it means we’re up for a bit of a challenge. But honestly? We love it. We’ve spent years finding and building relationships with suppliers who specialise in these rare stones. So if an old cut diamond has captured your heart, too, we’d be thrilled to help you find the right one.


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